Rolex  Oyster Perpetual  Watches

Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Defying the Elements

Much of the success of Rolex can be attributed to the creation of the Oyster Perpetual lineup. Combining the features of Rolex Oyster, the world’s first waterproof watch with a hermetically sealed case protecting the movement, and the Perpetual Rotor, the world’s first self-winding mechanism, there is much to expect from the Oyster Perpetual.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual’s most defining factor is its waterproof feature as well as its perpetually winding rotor. Watch enthusiasts know that if a Rolex watch bears the Oyster Perpetual name in its dial, it will be waterproof with an automatic winding movement inside. This also laid the groundwork for many modern self-winding mechanism watches. Take for example the Rolex Submariner, Rolex Explorer, and Rolex Datejust.

Having an OP label in most Rolex watches, almost all watches produced today are technically part of the collection. But while you’d see most Rolex watches with an OP label, the brand has a more straightforward idea for Oyster Perpetual guided primarily by the limited selection of dial colors and case sizes. Currently, the Oyster Perpetual Collection has models ranging from 28 to 41mm variants with 9 color choices including silver, radiant black, and bright blue.

Prices at a Glance: Most Popular Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches

How much is a Rolex Oyster Perpetual?

Out of all the entry level Rolex watches, Oyster Perpetual has one of the lowest priced models. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 28 Ref. 276200, a ladies’ Rolex watch, with single baton markers and hash marks for the minute hands, Chromalight luminescence, and 2232 movement, can be bought at around $5,500 USD. They’re available in radiant black, rose, bright blue, and silver dials.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 Ref. 124200 is nearly identical to the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 watches. A significantly larger size than 28mm, but smaller compared to larger 36mm and 41mm cases, it found the sweet spot to be the unisex watch. It has the same dial colors as OP 28mm. The only key difference is that it uses Roman numerals for the hour markers instead of the painted squares. This can be bought at around $5,800 USD.

On the other hand, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 Ref. 277200 retails at around $5,700. While you’d see no significant difference from OP 28mm when it comes to the indexes and hour markers, OP 31mm has several more fun dial colors like coral red, candy pink, and turquoise blue.

Early versions of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 Ref. 126000 priced at around $6100 USD include radiant black, bright blue and silver, later adding 5 more colors in 2020. The design in Oyster Perpetual 36” range is basically the same as Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust, but without the date window, also having the double baton in the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock markers. 

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2020 Models

In 2020, Rolex unleashed a wave of Oyster Perpetual models, 12 new ones in fact. This includes the first 7 versions of the 41mm cases with dynamic vibrant lacquer dial colors. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Silver Ref. 124300-0001 and Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 Bright Black Ref. 124300-0002 has a sun-ray finish, with hands and markers made of 18ct yellow gold all fitted with a domed bezel. The Oyster Perpetual 36mm gets 5 new color additions in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red, and green. 

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2020 models, 41mm and 36mm, use the newest Caliber 3230. This movement is entirely developed in-house. A series of patents were filed for continuous development on precision and power reserve extending up to 70 hours. It’s also equipped with features to make it resistant to shocks with the Paraflex shock absorbers, and magnetic fields with the Paramagnetic blue Parachron hairspring.

Apart from these self-winding movements, these watches are made of waterproof Oyster Steel case out of 904L steel, and a hermetically screwed winding crown. Mounting the case, is an upgraded flat three-piece link bracelet. The Chromalight displays a blue hue that will become very visible in the dark and even underwater. That said, the OP watches can be carried underwater for up to 100 meters. 

The newest Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 36mm costs a little over $6,000 USD. While the larger Oyster Perpetual Ref. 124300 is priced at almost $6,500 USD. 

Vintage Oyster Perpetual: Is it a good investment?

In general, the limited number of Rolex Oyster Perpetual models makes them inevitably good investments. For one, the value of vintage Oyster Perpetual increases over time. Also, as they become increasingly hard to find, they are desirable for vintage watch collectors. Not to mention, some Rolex vintages are taken apart to replace other watches' movements. Hence, unaltered ones would be much more valuable.

One great example is the Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 released in the late 1950s through 1960s. It has a timeless design originally having 26 jewel calibre 1560 or 1570 automatic movement. Though intended to last for only one generation, many Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1002 are still working just as smoothly, which you will be able to purchase anywhere from $900 USD to $4,000 USD.

Featuring the Caliber 2236, the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust 28 Ref. 126234, released in 1945, is made of the metallic combination Oyster Steel and gold called the Rolesor. Over the lavender dial, diamonds enclosed by 18ct gold represent each hour marker except for the 12 o’clock having the Rolex crown logo. It's a beautifully comfortable timepiece with a five-piece link metal bracelet that hugs the woman’s wrist.

Two more vintage Rolexes to consider from this lineup are the Golden Egg, and Big Bubble. The Rolex 6634, also known as “Golden Egg” due to its thick gold-capped case is one unmistakably Oyster Perpetual vintage, powered with Caliber 1030 with a 34mm case. You can buy these at around $4,000 USD. While the 1947 Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback or Big Bubble Ref. 5029 can be purchased anywhere around $5,000 USD. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual: The Collectors' Must-Have Watches 

Definitely one of the pre-owned Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches that collectors will pay a premium for would be the Oyster Perpetual 39 Ref. 114300 in Grape Dial. Inside ticks the Caliber 3132 automatic movement, with a power reserve of 48 hours. It was released in 2019 and discontinued shortly after two years prior the release of the 41mm. The gorgeous grape dial is what sets it apart as a charismatic timepiece for women. You would find pre-owned models with the Grape dial in mint condition priced at around $8,500 USD.

Another special edition Oyster Perpetual is the Blue Dial Ford Ref. 67198 released much earlier in 1985. The case and bracelet material is made of yellow gold and measures 24mm in diameter. The dial is an elegant blue matching perfectly with the yellow gold. This is priced at around $7,500 USD.

History Behind the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual lineage goes back to 1926 when the Original Oyster was released. Everyone was in awe after Mercedez Gleitze put the Oyster to the test while crossing the English Channel. Following this achievement, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf would describe Rolex Oyster as “the wonder watch that defies the elements” in papers such as The Daily Mail. 

Just five years later in 1931, Rolex released a new generation watch. It was again a waterproof watch, but inside it contained the Perpetual Rotor. As a nod to both the Oyster and Perpetual Rotor inventions, the newest generation watch that is both waterproof and perpetually winding was called the Oyster Perpetual.

The first Oyster Perpetual watches were powered by the Calibre 640 and 1030. Two examples would be the Rolex vintage Oyster Perpetual Bubbleback Ref. 2940 powered by calibre 640. And the 33mm Oyster Perpetual Ref. 6581, powered by calibre 1030.

Around May of 1953, another defining moment in Rolex history includes the OP watch where Sir Edmund Hillary and Sir Tenzing Norgay used OP prototypes in an expedition to the summit of Mount Everest. This time, with additional functions such as compass for navigation alongside accurate timekeeping to equip them in the expedition. This would later be used for the design creation of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer. 

Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Truly a Masterpiece 

Seemingly an entry-level watch at first glance, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a magnificent masterpiece upon closer look. It is a sum of artistic skills put together in assembling a timeless watch with barrel architecture and state-of-the-art technology. Truly, it laid the foundation for much of Rolex’s success in the history of watchmaking.