Patek Philippe  Calatrava  Watches

Patek Philippe Calatrava: All Class and Understated Elegance 

The Patek Philippe Calatrava range — Patek Philippe’s quintessential dress watch — exudes nothing but timeless elegance. Since its launch in 1932, these round watches with clean lines have become emblematic of the Patek Philippe style. Constantly crowned as the best dress watches for men and women, the Calatrava is one of the most coveted collections of the brand. Sought-after not only by devoted watch connoisseurs but also new generations of watch lovers alike, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the perfect timepiece to wear at black-tie events, especially if you want to radiate charm and class.

Prices at a Glance: The Most Popular Patek Philippe Calatrava Watches 
 

How much does a Patek Philippe Calatrava cost? 

Ready to invest in one of the best dress watches out there? Want a timepiece that perfectly embodies the elegance of timekeeping? Well, if that’s the case your main question now is probably, how much does a Patek Philippe watch cost in this range? With numerous models in the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection, prices for these watches will vary. If you’re wanting to buy something new, the cheapest Patek Philippe watch in this line is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196R-001. This timepiece features a silvery gray dial with gold applied hour markers on a rose gold case paired with a chocolate brown alligator skin strap. This manual watch also features a subdial with small seconds. The Patek Philippe price tag for the 5196R-001 is approximately $24,600 USD.

Meanwhile, one of their most extravagant models in the current lineup will set you back around $128,399 USD. The Patek Philippe Calatrava 5077/100R-036 is part of the brand’s Rare Handcraft range that features dials in cloisonne enamel. This limited-edition Patek Philippe watch perfectly utilizes the orchid design on the dial to symbolize grace and refinement. Adorned with over 100 diamonds, the 5077/100R-036 is one of the most expensive Patek Philippe watches in the Calatrava line.

You don’t need to shell out a fortune to purchase a timeless Patek Philippe dress watch, though. In the second-hand market, you can easily get a simple discontinued Patek Philippe Calatrava watch for around $6,000 USD. However, vintage Calatrava watches, with only two-digit reference numbers, can readily go for around five to six figures today. 

Prices for the Vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava Watches

Speaking of vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava models, the Calatrava Ref. 96 is the first-ever Calatrava watch. Released during the 1930s, a time when pocket watches still dominated the horological industry, the Ref. 96 helped bring wristwatches into the mainstream market. It even helped boost Patek Philippe’s sales during the Great Depression. The Ref. 96 came in a 31mm gold case with a clean ivory dial and applied gold markers. At the 6 o’clock marker lay a subdial with small seconds. The production of this vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava model spanned over 40 years and it undeniably became the blueprint for other watches in the collection. Nowadays, the Ref. 96 is one of the most sought-after Calatrava timepieces by collectors. Depending on the reiteration and condition, Ref. 96 watches will most likely have Patek Philippe price tags between $10,000 USD and $20,000 USD.

Another favorite of watch enthusiasts is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196. As the successor of the ref. 96, the ref. 5196 grew in size, measuring 37 mm in diameter. Despite the change in size, it still retained the classic aesthetic of the original, but with a flat bezel and a few added contemporary flair. Ticking away inside this vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava watch was, at the time, the new caliber 215 PS movement. It’s available in four different materials: white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum. Prices for vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5196 watches depend on the overall condition. Prices at most dealers start at $18,000 USD and can go as high as $25,600 USD.

Prices of the Patek Philippe Calatravea with Guilloché Bezel

Moving on to another coveted Calatrava version that wholly embodies the Patek Philippe brand is the Calatrava with a “Clou de Paris” guilloché bezel. The first Patek Philippe watch to feature a guilloché bezel was the Calatrava Ref. 3520. However, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3919 is undoubtedly one of the most popular models in this line. Introduced in 1985, it came in a modest, yet slightly bigger, 33.5mm case. This particular model came in three different variants of gold: yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold. The cream dial featured black lacquered Roman numerals with a subdial for small seconds. Despite the leaf-style hands being fashioned from white gold, they appear to have a darker color thanks to their black nickel plating. The price for a pre-owned ref. 3919s can range from $9,700 USD to $11,000 USD.

Another popular Calatrava watch featuring a guilloché bezel is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119. Sporting a slightly enlarged 36mm case, this watch features similar aspects to that of its predecessor. The white dial remains true to the original, but with slightly elongated and thinned black Roman numerals. To perfect the “Clous de Paris” hobnail pattern on the bezel, the company utilized the traditional diamond guilloché artisan technique. Released in 2006, prices for pre-owned Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 5119 watches can set you back $17,500 USD.

Prices for the Patek Philippe Calatrava Date Models

Traditional models of the Patek Philippe Calatrava watch line encapsulate the basic necessity of timekeeping. With that in mind, versions with date functions and other flairs are rare and few. However, there have been several Calatrava watches to feature a date display window at the 3 o’clock marker. One of the more recent models to have this feature is the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-010. The ref. 5227G-010 is a relatively small watch, compared to other models, measuring only 27mm. Moreover, powering this automatic watch is the Patek Philippe Calibre 324 S C movement with a power reserve of up to 45 hours. The movement is housed in a white gold case with a black dial. You can get your hands on ref. 5227G-010 for $37,850 USD.

Other popular Calatrava models with date displays include the 38mm Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296R-010 with a silvery-opaline dial and polished bezel. This $22,449 timepiece is encased in a rose gold case with a crocodile leather strap and rose gold ardillon buckle. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5296G-001 is a men’s watch that also boasts a date window on its silver-blue dial. Engraved around the outer rim of this $27,339 USD watch are minute markers, making it easier to read time precisely with just a glance.

Should You Invest in a Vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava Watch? 

Thanks to their minimalist and simplistic design, the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection offers an array of timeless watches. Besides the fact that they will never go out of style, these dress watches are also solid investment pieces. Unlike other collections in the Patek Philippe catalog, resell prices for older and discontinued models mostly remain stable. Mint-condition models typically have a Patek Philippe price range of $10,000 USD to $23,000 USD. Although, it’s not unheard of to find models from the 1930s to 1950s that sell for more. Thanks to the increase in market value, a $300 Calatrava watch from these eras can easily sell for fivefold the original price. The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 96 from 1932 is an example of this. As the first-ever Calatrava model, it is a “holy grail” for many collectors.

Patek Philippe Calatrava's Colorful History 

Patek Philippe has a long and colorful history in the horological industry. This includes creating the first-ever wristwatch back in 1868 for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary. The story behind the Calatrava collection didn’t start until the 1930s, though. However, how did the Patek Philippe Calatrava line become the world’s most coveted and desired dress watch?

Soon after the Stern brothers acquired the business in 1932, they launched the Calatrava line. The brothers’ goal was to overcome the company losses caused by the worldwide economic depression.

Patek Philippe introduced us to what would become quintessentially and undoubtedly, the best dress watches in the market. The Bauhaus artistic movement, a German design aesthetic, heavily influenced the design of the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96. It came in a gold case with a clean ivory dial and applied gold markers. It features a subdial at the 6 o’clock marker. Boasting time-only capabilities, the ref. 96 appealed to a broader audience, without the frills of unnecessary features.

Since then, the line has continued to release round wristwatches with clean lines and pure charm. Nowadays, though, we do see some versions of Patek Philippe Calatrava watches with added elements like a date display window. On top of that, you can select from different models that will suit your personal style and preferences. There are watches in this range that feature flat, round, or guilloché bezels. Moreover, the technology at the heart of these timepieces have also evolved over time to feature different types of reliable in-house calibers. From the original manual winding caliber inside the Ref. 96, to the ultra-thin self-winding movement that newer models have, like in the 2021 Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 4997/200G, there’s surely an option for everybody.

Reasons To Buy a Patek Philippe Calatrava Watch

1. Patek Philippe is one of the most prestigious Swiss luxury brands in the world. It’s a powerhouse in the horological industry, with its timepieces being favorites amongst investors and collectors. The launch of the first Calatrava Ref. 96 brought in a new era for the brand. During a time when people had no interest in unnecessary frills, Patek Philippe introduced a simple and straightforward watch that would set the standard for generations to come.

2. The design and artistry put into every single timepiece of this range is extraordinary. These timepieces are simple yet elegant blank canvases that will never go out of fashion. Purchasing a Patek Philippe dress watch from the Calatrava line ensures timeless elegance on your wrist for years to come. 

3. The simplicity in design that this collection boasts isn’t an accident. The Calatrava line follows functionality over extravagance. Its main goal is to tell time, with only a few Patek Philippe watch models in this line having date display functions. Because of this, they’ve become everlasting classics that will always be a necessity.

4. The brand pays close attention to details. From the case and dial to its beating heart, each watch is hand-finished by trained specialists. Patek Philippe does this to smooth away any hints of machinery that may hamper the perfection of each timepiece. From the numeral marking and enameled dials to polished cases and caliber movements, these are all polished, applied, and finished by hand.

5. The Calatrava line features some of the brand’s best entry-level models. However, the resell prices for these watches still hold their value. This is especially true for high-demand pieces in the line. Thus, it’s safe to say that a Patek Philippe Calatrava watch is a sound investment. 

Calatrava: What's in a Name? 

The Patek Philiippe Calatrava collection is named after the Calatrava Knights of Spain and Portugal. Interestingly enough, Patek Philippe already trademarked the Calatrava cross 1887 as their emblem. 45 years later, the brand titled their then-latest collection after the symbol of the Catholic order of knights who defended the city of Calatrava from invaders in 1158. No one knows why exactly the brand decided to use the name for one of its collections years later, despite it never being done before.

However, according to the company, the symbol of the cross reflects the unaffected beauty that the Patek Philippe values. This is a seemingly perfect fit for a watch collection that’s all about timeless elegance that will remain for eternity, despite the evolution of trends. 

Patek Philippe Calatrava: Pure Elegance on Your Wrist

Since introducing what would become the most iconic and best dress watches in the brand’s entire catalog, Patek Philippe has continued to release watches with timeless designs. The Patek Philippe Calatrava collection perfectly encapsulates the essence of the brand through the many variations and models. Thanks to their clean lines, pure elegance, undiluted charm, and simplistic perfection, they will forever remain to be the most coveted Patek Philippe collection.